Help Us Document the Catalogue
We ask manufacturers for real specs first. When they can't provide them, we ask people who own the part — in exchange for a free one.
How it works
- Pick an open request below.
- Hit Apply by email — it pre-fills the product and what’s needed.
- Add your UK address and send.
- If picked, DST posts the item free.
- Send back what’s listed, with a photo as evidence.
Rules
- UK only.
- One product must be completed before another is sent out.
- Photo evidence required with every submission.
- Please provide as much detail as possible.
Open requests
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Dimensions: board and visible screen
Measuring dimensions with digital calipers
You'll need
- Digital calipers (a ruler works in a pinch, but calipers are far more accurate)
Steps
- Zero the calipers with the jaws fully closed before measuring.
- Measure the longest edge (length) first, then the shortest edge (width), using the outer jaws.
- Include anything permanently attached (header pins, mounted connectors) in the measurement, but note in your reply what's included.
- Take each measurement twice and use the average if the two readings differ.
- Record to 1 decimal place in mm, e.g. "25.4mm x 48.2mm".
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Weight
Weighing with a digital scale
You'll need
- Digital kitchen or parcel scale (0.1g resolution is ideal; 1g is fine for most items)
Steps
- Place the scale on a flat surface and let it settle.
- Tare the scale to zero with nothing on it.
- Place the item on the scale and wait for the reading to stop changing.
- Weigh it 2-3 times, removing and replacing the item, to confirm a consistent reading.
- Record the weight in grams.
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Driver chip: SSD1306 or SSD1315?
Identifying an OLED's driver chip
You'll need
- Bright light or phone flashlight
- Magnifying glass (helpful, the print is small)
Steps
- Check the PCB for small printed text near the connector or on the back. Some boards print the driver name directly.
- Check the edge of the glass/flex panel itself for a laser-etched part code.
- If the driver is a black epoxy blob (chip-on-board) with no visible package, the part number genuinely isn't readable without desoldering. Note that as your answer rather than guessing between SSD1306/SSD1315.
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Supply voltage rating (3.3V, 5V, or both?)
Checking a board's supply voltage rating
You'll need
- None, or a magnifying glass if the print is small
Steps
- Check the PCB near the VCC/GND pins for printed voltage text, e.g. "3-5V" or "3.3V".
- Look for a small voltage regulator chip on the board, often a 3-pin part near the power pins, and note its part number if you can read it.
- Don't power the board at a voltage you're not sure it supports to test this. If nothing is printed and you can't identify a regulator, say that rather than guessing.
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Shaft length and diameter
Measuring dimensions with digital calipers
You'll need
- Digital calipers (a ruler works in a pinch, but calipers are far more accurate)
Steps
- Zero the calipers with the jaws fully closed before measuring.
- Measure the longest edge (length) first, then the shortest edge (width), using the outer jaws.
- Include anything permanently attached (header pins, mounted connectors) in the measurement, but note in your reply what's included.
- Take each measurement twice and use the average if the two readings differ.
- Record to 1 decimal place in mm, e.g. "25.4mm x 48.2mm".
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Panel-mount thread size
Sizing a panel-mount thread
You'll need
- Digital calipers
- Thread pitch gauge (optional, but makes this much easier)
Steps
- Measure the outer diameter of the threaded barrel with calipers.
- If you have a thread pitch gauge, find the leaf that meshes cleanly with the threads to read the pitch directly.
- Without a gauge: count the number of thread peaks in 10mm along the barrel, then divide 10 by that count to get the pitch in mm.
- Compare diameter and pitch against a standard metric thread table (e.g. M7 x 0.75, M9 x 0.75) to name the size.
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Taper: confirm linear, not logarithmic
Confirming linear vs logarithmic taper
You'll need
- Multimeter (resistance/continuity mode)
Steps
- Set the multimeter to resistance (Ω) mode.
- Measure resistance across the two outer terminals. This is the pot's rated total resistance.
- Turn the shaft to its visual/mechanical midpoint, halfway between the two end stops.
- Measure resistance between the wiper (middle) terminal and one outer terminal.
- Divide that reading by the total from the first measurement. Close to 50% means a linear taper. Well below that, roughly 10-20%, means logarithmic/audio taper.
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Detents per full rotation
Counting rotary detents
You'll need
- None, just the part itself
Steps
- Mark or note the starting position of the shaft, e.g. against a reference line on the housing.
- Rotate the shaft one full 360° turn in one direction, counting each physical click/detent you feel.
- Repeat 2-3 times to make sure the count is consistent.
- Record the number of detents per full rotation.
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Board dimensions
Measuring dimensions with digital calipers
You'll need
- Digital calipers (a ruler works in a pinch, but calipers are far more accurate)
Steps
- Zero the calipers with the jaws fully closed before measuring.
- Measure the longest edge (length) first, then the shortest edge (width), using the outer jaws.
- Include anything permanently attached (header pins, mounted connectors) in the measurement, but note in your reply what's included.
- Take each measurement twice and use the average if the two readings differ.
- Record to 1 decimal place in mm, e.g. "25.4mm x 48.2mm".
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Knob shaft diameter
Measuring dimensions with digital calipers
You'll need
- Digital calipers (a ruler works in a pinch, but calipers are far more accurate)
Steps
- Zero the calipers with the jaws fully closed before measuring.
- Measure the longest edge (length) first, then the shortest edge (width), using the outer jaws.
- Include anything permanently attached (header pins, mounted connectors) in the measurement, but note in your reply what's included.
- Take each measurement twice and use the average if the two readings differ.
- Record to 1 decimal place in mm, e.g. "25.4mm x 48.2mm".
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USB-to-serial chip: exact part marking (listed as CH340)
Reading a chip's identity from its markings
You'll need
- Bright light or phone flashlight
- Phone camera (macro mode if available) or a magnifying glass
Steps
- Find the IC in question on the board and angle a light across it so the printed text catches shadow.
- Photograph or zoom in on the top of the chip. The part number is usually the first line of text.
- Search the part number as printed to confirm the manufacturer and exact variant.
- If the chip is a black epoxy blob with no visible package (chip-on-board), the marking isn't accessible without desoldering. Say so plainly rather than guessing.
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Flash size: confirm via esptool (listed as 4MB)
Confirming flash size with esptool
You'll need
- A PC with Python installed
- esptool (install with `pip install esptool`)
- USB cable
Steps
- Connect the board to your PC via USB.
- Find the port. On Windows, check Device Manager for the COM port. On Mac/Linux, it's usually /dev/ttyUSB0 or /dev/tty.usbserial-*.
- Run `esptool.py --port PORT flash_id` in a terminal, replacing PORT with the one you found.
- If it can't connect, hold the BOOT button while it's trying, then release once it says "Connecting...".
- Read the "Detected flash size" line from the output, e.g. "4MB".
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Tip diameter of each piece (how fine the point actually is)
Measuring a fine tweezer tip
You'll need
- Digital calipers with pointed/needle jaw tips (most standard digital calipers have these)
Steps
- Close the very tips of the caliper jaws around the last 1-2mm of the tweezer point, as close to the actual tip as you can get.
- Read the width there. This is the tip diameter, not the width further back on the blade.
- Repeat the measurement 2-3 times. Fine tips are easy to misjudge on a single reading.
- If the tip is finer than your calipers can resolve accurately, say so and give your best estimate rather than a false-precise number.
- Do this for each piece in the set separately if their tips differ.